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Colour Changing Jelly Flower Lipstick

by Levin Rutherford |

So I am absolutely in love with the "concept" of these new Kailijumei's flower jelly lipsticks coming out of Asia right now. But there are a few things you should know before purchasing one of these beauties claiming to be "all natural & vegan." Like.. what is in them??? & What makes them change colour?

The ingredient list on the "purchase listing" is as follows: cocoa butter, resin, lavender oil and beeswax, are all perfect moisturizing agents for the lips. But on the actual package: Ingredients: Ceresin (mineral wax), hydrogenated polyisobutene (synthetic polymer), polyethylene (polymer of ethylene ), squalene (shark liver oil), tridecyl trimellitate (organ system toxicity = non-reproductive), diisostearyl malate malate (Isostearyl Alcohol), isopropyl palmitate (palmitic acid), PEG 30 phytosterols (soybean oil sterols), titanium dioxide (mica), CI 15850 (Red 57), CI 15985(Yellow Food coloring), methylparaben (A Preservative & Human endocrine disruptor), fragrance (organ system toxicity = non-reproductive).

WTF?! That was my first red flag.😝😜😛

Most of these ingredients I can't even pronounce. But I can tell you straight up, they ain't natural. What is all the hype going around about colour changing jelly lipsticks? When I looked into the magic ingredient, here is what I found: D&C RED 27

From the skindeep cosmetic database: About D&C RED 27: D&C Red 27 is a synthetic dye produced from petroleum or coal tar sources; this dye is FDA-approved for use in pharmaceuticals and cosmetics. Other HIGH concerns: Persistence and bioaccumulation; Other MODERATE concerns: Organ system toxicity (non-reproductive); Other LOW concerns: Ecotoxicology

Most of the marketing for these products is quite exaggerated, because the colour isn't really "personalized", and because the technology isn't new.

How it works:
The notable thing about Red 27 is that it's colourless when it is dissolved in a waterless base. But once it is exposed to moisture, it turns a bright pink. So the Dior Lip Glow ingredients have an anhydrous base that consist of various oils and silicones so that the Red 27/CI 45410 remains colourless in the tube, but once you apply it on your lips, the moisture in the air and your lips makes the dye turn pink. In fact, it would change to the shade of pink it really is regardless of the pH or chemistry or whatever quality of your skin - and you can verify this really quickly by swiping your Dior Lip Glow on a sheet of white paper. You'll find that it turns the same shade of pink, too.

There is NO "perceptive one-shade-fits-all" that gives you that made-for-you customized shade. The product does not "reacts with your skin's pH" to give you your perfect colour. There is no such "intuitive formula" that "reacts with your personal skin chemistry" (all skins have water right?), and incorporating Red 27 in an anhydrous base is not an "innovative formula". By and large, the technology behind the Dior Lip Glow is the same as the technology behind the NYX Mood Lipgloss.

My goal is to come up with a formula for jelly lipstick that is completely 100% organic and non-toxic. Plus I freaking love Beauty and the Beast and the idea of this flower encased in glass lipstick is super magical and has my mind spinning!!! It will not be colour changing, but it will look just as pretty on and in the tube!!!